For the Love of Steppe

It's quite easy to summarize the nature in Mongolia. The weather is harsh and most of the land is steppe or desert, with few lakes or rivers. It's difficult to survive in such an environment without the support of others. After witnessing the people's lives outside Ulaan Baatar, we now think that many of the quarrels and fights we saw in UB are just a sad part of city life. Instead, it seems that the norm is to extend a helping hand even without knowing each other. In fact, many kind folks saved us during the tour that was plagued with problems.

Passersby stopped to help us on three out of the four flat tires we had on the first day of our tour. What would one do, without a spare tire and no repair shops way out in the middle of a vast steppe or a desert? The only way out of such a situation is flag down a passing motorist to indicate that you're having problems. Those who stopped to help us provided parts, tools, and even a spare tire until we got to the next town. Usually, those who ask for help return the favor by offering beer, vodka, tobacco, or perhaps a small amount of cash, but they are not an absolute requirement. In some cases, those who offer help provide drinks and food to the stranded. Then they all sit around the problem, in our case a punctured tire, discussing the situation and working on the issue at hand. They may not even introduce themselves, instead focusing their energies on providing the help that's needed.

The countryside of Mongolia, the animals, the steppe, and the ever-present big sky, is always on the minds of its people. Everybody, including those who live in cities like Ulaan Baatar, longs to be there whenever they can. They have such a strong connection with the land. The sense of sharing the land with everyone is normal, and based in the nomadic traditions. Except for the few main highways, there are no fixed roads through the countryside, and drivers follow whichever track looks smoothest. There is no concern for entering private property and it's not a problem to pitch a tent or erect a ger wherever they feel like it.

Helping each other is the norm among Mongolians, perhaps because they share the harsh climate and the land. Their identity is glued together with the environment that they live in and is what connects its people together.