Kaosan Now

Kaosan Road. Any traveler who visits Bangkok has been there at least once. Those who have not visited may know the street from Alex Garland's novel "The Beach" or the Hollywood flick by the same name staring Leonardo DeCaprio.

The bustling two-lane road stretches for just a few blocks in the heart of the Banglamphu district. At night its lanes are blocked from traffic, making it into a pedestrian-only open-air club of sorts. The travelers are mostly Westerners and Japanese, walking, shopping, eating, and just hanging out.

Hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, clubs, convenient stores, travel agencies, internet cafés, bookstores, clothing shops, photo processing and any businesses that cater to travelers pack both sides of the road. More vendors selling souvenirs, street food, and drinks, fake hair implants and instant dreads line the sidewalks and overflow into the street itself. So many are vying for the all mighty tourist dollar that they have even began setting up shop on the neighboring roads around Kaosan.

Once upon a time, the street was a restful and relaxing spot to come before or after traveling around Thailand or other parts of Southeast Asia. It was a well-known backpackers' haven, an excellent place to trade information and to replenish necessary travel items. In recent years it has become a major tourist spot where vacationers visiting Thailand come to enjoy the hip shopping and partying while staying in Bangkok for a few days. Fortunately, the group bus tours haven't glommed on to Kaosan yet.

There isn't much difference between the average tourist and the backpacker. They all walk Kaosan dressed in their Thai, Indian or Nepalese style clothing and accessories. The standard uniform, especially for men, is the Fisherman's Pant, the traditional wrap-around pants that were made famous by, you guessed it, Thai fishermen. It seems as if everyone on Kaosan are wearing the fisherman's pants in various colors. Of course, the vacationers always look neat and clean, no matter how they try to look like experienced backpackers.

Some backpackers may lament these recent changes, but I, personally, have no attachments to the past history of Kaosan Road. These days, even the local young Thais come here with friends and lovers to enjoy the party atmosphere. Now, the standard formula of Thai serving the Western or Japanese traveler is breaking down and a genuine cultural exchange between people of all kinds is taking place.