November 04, 2004

Golden Dawn

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At dawn, the sun shines its heavenly light on the Golden Temple, the holiest of shrines in the Sikh religion. The temple is located in the city of Amritsar in the Indian state of Punjab. With 18 million followers of the faith in India, and many more around the world, Punjab is the center of Sikh religion and culture. Everyone is required to cover their head with cloth and wash their hands and feet before entering the holy structure. Shoes, tobacco and leather must be left outside the gate.

We approached the gate of the temple before sunrise. The cool morning air was filled with the gentle sounds of sacred chanting accompanied by Indian percussions. Our feet fell upon the marble floor underneath us, still cool from the passing night. The first sight to grace our eyes is the golden Hari Mandir Sahib, the two-storey temple in the center of the sacred pool called Amrit Sarovar or "pool of nectar". The Golden Temple appeared to be floating within it, projecting its magnificent reflection onto the waters surface. Worshippers kneel at first sight of the temple, in which Sikh's holy scripture called Guru Granth Sahib is enshrined.

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After entering and the initial worship, visitors walk clock-wise around the pool along the Parkarma, the marble walkway surrounding the water. Men and women bathe in the ghats at the waters edge, offering their prayers and cleansing their bodies with the sacred water. When they are finished bathing they have a fulfilled look about them. People find peace in their own ways, such as sitting by the side of the pool meditating or quietly conversing in small groups in the shade. The chanting of the Holy Scripture, accompanied by harmonies and tabla drums are always in the background, echoing softly in everybody's ears.

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As the morning sunshine broke through the city's dusty air and into the quietness of the shrine the marble structures turned hues of yellow, orange and pink, bringing with it a livelier atmosphere. The golden building stood firmly at the center with its overwhelming presence, and never fell out of our view. Young men were dressed in the latest hip-hop fashion while women wore the traditional saree. A westerner stood at his easel painting the glorious view of the Golden Temple filled with gorgeous light and color.

Actually, only the dome on Hari Mandir's roof is made of gold with the rest made from brass. The Arabic design and delicate details on its sides become visible upon approach from Guru's Bridge. Inside the temple are four high priests who continuously read from the sacred text and bless the visitors, along with a set of musicians who perform the music. Sikhs sit down on the floor, absorbedly listening and praying.

Sikhism was founded in the late 15th century and began as a reaction against the caste system and Brahmin domination of ritual. It was aimed at blending the best of Islam and Hinduism together. Sikhs believe in one god and reject the worship of idols. This temple does not have idols of gods for that reason, but instead displays pictures of the 10 Sikh gurus.

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The sacred feeling of the temple is heightened by the fact that it's perpetually being cleaned and that the all structures, aside from the Hari Mandir, are made from white marble. The quiet energy of the temple is in great contrast with the chaotic streets outside its gate, filled with many people and much traffic moving about in a fog of dust. One could easily choose to spend an entire day within its walls absorbing the peace and solitude that the temple offers.

Posted by taro at November 4, 2004 04:15 PM
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